Thursday, February 5, 2015

Exploring Hampi 2, rich vibrant rice fields

Exploring Hampi 2

The stay in Hampi began on a Friday lasting till Tuesday, the day i took a train from Hospet to Andhra Pradesh.  In the lodges where you stay there is not much to do, visiting eating joints here and there spread over a small area. There are modes of transport, mirroring the aspirations of those who visit and those who desire to stay for months turning to years. Those falling in the latter category would be just a handful.   Mopeds for a day came handy for those who were willing to shell out around rs 400 to 500. As for those showing allegiance to foot feat, the locals outsmarted most of the visitors.
Having gone past Achyutaraya temple, next it was Varaha (saiva) temple i came across.  On a foot having come across directions to Virupaksha temple, Achyutaraya temple and Curtesan's street  the Varaha (Saiva) temple had a board that read the temple is constructed over a Jagati with a sanctum, Vestibule and open mukhamantapa.

Temple between rocks
The route from Varaha temple to Vitthala temple could be realised with a long walk. Coming along the way is a river in full spate followed by a a place where some idols have been kept with big rocks holding on either side. A little inside the place is dark and yet the people taking this trail make a point to visit the same. After coming out as you try to take a kuchha road you come across Abhishek, the student, selling Postcards from Hampi. Enquiring about his school stint, he reveals on a Sunday he sells postcards. A little later from Kuchha road is a spot for tea drinking, not forgetting far away is a warning on swimming prohibited and beware of crocodiles. From here keep walking and you reach the outer fringe of Vitthala temple.

There is a board that reads
Vishnu temple (left)
King's balance (left)
Inscribed Vishnu temple

Varaha temple to Vitthala temple Route Once Again
Once Again the route from Varaha temple goes like this. A River in full spate, a temple between rocks, kuchha road, a tea making spot having not far away a swimming warning and this followed by outer fringe of Vitthala temple.

Board at Vitthala temple
From the board at Vitthala temple turn left and you are in Vitthala temple. The board says
Vitthala temple is the highest watermark of Vijaynagara style of art and architecture. Vitthala is Krishna aspect of Lord Vishnu. . Outside the temple to its east is a huge bazar measuring 945 metres in length and 40 metres in width leading to a sacred tank known as Lokapavani.

Inside the temple it has three monuments. One monument has message "work in progress in maha mantaba."

Back of monument is Thungabadra river
As you visit the area measuring 940 metres in length and 40 metres in width, it too opens to a monument perhaps under restoration. At the back of the monument you can sight Thungabadra river, across the river is a house red in character. From here as well you can sight Anjanaye Parbat, the flags atop giving a fair idea.

Having spent a little over half an hour in the Vitthala temple and roundabout, you come across battery operated cars that carry old and women to and fro. Driven largely by women, these transport acumen are best to date. From Vitthala temple after leaving the outer fringe as you walk and go past the spot for tea, the kuccha road and temple between rocks it won't take more than 15 minutes to reach the Coutesan's street board. Effectively speaking, from Vitthala temple to Coutesan's street board it would take 30 to 35 minutes. As you walk further you reach another tea spot. Here, Hanumantha, the tea maker and Krishna Reddy from Bellary, you come across. Not far away you come across a solo round shaped boat made from plastic, wire and bamboo, known in local parlance as tokra. Shivram, the boat man, has answers to your queries. From here it would take another 15 minutes before you spot Virupaksha temple in full glare.

Here the streets in Hampi that divide the lodges on either side are narrow, three wheelers don't have that much of maneuverable space.  Most lodges have restaurants on roof, the steel staircase is another point of challenge. I am told there has been a restoration work after all illegal structures were removed and those defying the height parameter. Having stayed in Sambhu Guest House the co-owner reveals in lieu of demolished structures that stood right opposite the Virupaksha temple, he and others have been given land elsewhere where they hope to raise lodges.

Gopi restaurant comes handy for milk/tea in the morning and the owner is kind enough to give literature on Hampi.  Tourist spots faraway like Badami (caves), Aihole (a monument similar to Parliament) and Pattadakal (architectural imprints of this place has reflections in different parts of the country) have been mentioned by him. A middleaged man running the restaurant which is also flanked by a massage corner having in attendance men of muscular motor. Other restaurants are ganesh, moonlight and hampi roof. But there was no food to match the one delivered in Vaibhava Guest House in Anegundi. Perhaps the guide at Vaibhava Guest House goes by the name Maruthi and not Murthi.
Another important aspect about Anegundi is it  did not have satellite tvs so one was not reminded of keeping abreast with day to day happenings. All sort of debates on roasting of the centre by a little revere here or there we were lucky to be kept away from. A stable opening at the centre is what we all look forward to and stability at the centre secured some months ago should not be hijacked by a little reverse here or there. Mandates won by unreasonable protests and provocations can very well boomerang as all want peace. Centre could have been at default at some places (full page ads not serving the desired goal, lack of transparency in municipal bodies, factionalism, in effect the local unit disinterest affecting 20-odd outcomes or more than that)  but others chiding people to collect and convert to protests and a slew of blackmails and let anarchy elements hold strong would backfire. Lessons from W. Asia show that alternate politics ignites fear and instability and take away livelihood of people. Say in a country of 100, if you sway people by allegations and asking them to take recourse to street battles, informing them in all fairness their good lies in these form of deeds, at least 70 would say ha ha (yes yes). Peace at Centre and Country the mandate of some months ago is what it essentially meant, don't dilute that.


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