The walk from Alipiri Gate to Tirumala

The walk from Alipiri Gate to Tirumala

On a Monday from Alipiri Gate i start at 10.25 and reach the temple complex at 10.35 from where i write the prayers. After having written the prayers, effectively i start from Alipiri Gate and its roundabout at 10.58. Past 300 steps at 11.04, 600 steps at 11.10, reach Golu Gopuram (little over 2000 steps) at 11.42. Mind you the first 2000 steps are too steep and whoever intends to do it should wish for a robust health.  After a brief halt including taking the Golu Gopuram ticket, which would enable me free darshan, as i proceed for the next 10 minutes it is a little steep. On the way i come across a large number of vendors, one young lady selling her wares whom i give a picture of the Lord. The expression on the face conveys probably she was waiting for me to hand her the picture of the Lord. Then there were a series of those with weighing machines with whom i exchange hopes and endurance.

Reach Hanuman statue at 12.30. There are a series of stalls having photographers and the one whom i access is a new one and here i find it difficult to stand for long in the Sun. Start from here at 12.48 and going past another Hanuman temple. Just before they put a stamp on your Golu Gopuram ticket, prasadam is being distributed. Skipping prasadam is a better option as i have a wish to complete the trek in three or little under three hours. As we near steps to descend and reach a winding road, there is another temple besides the road. About 500 to 700 metres from here you have more steps to ascend, as steep as the steps in the first hour. Past steps on the back of enduring strength i am in vicinity of gardens, the entry and exit point of Tirumala. Here a TTD water tanker can be seen parked. The place which i consider the final point of trek is opposite the Balaji bus stand and i am here at 1.58. Effectively three hours, with a noting i was in the best of health as i have been in 2010 and 2011 when i walked from Alipiri Gate to Tirumala on innumerable occasions. Skipping prasadam on offer as i have to watch out for time that i have at my disposal. Near the balaji bus stand i take a series of tea glasses; some effectively strong, some bordering on mild canvas.

The second day in Tirumala

The second day in Tirumala

The second day in Tirumala is meant to secure a railway ticket for journey to New Delhi. The railway reservation centre has to get an upgrade if it wishes to cater to the needs of passengers. Passengers who wish to board a train not only come from Andhra, Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Karnataka, they hail from distant places like Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra, Bihar, Bengal and Delhi. I came across one instance where a gentleman hailing from Madhya Pradesh wished to check the seat availability. The staff as usual did not check the status on the terminal and just dismissed him by saying "no seats". There are two counters; there is an urgent need to have three counters. This can easily be done as there is enough space. In the morning one queue is for normal tickets and other queue for tatkal tickets. Second "trains at a glance" guide of the railways should have different sets (three to four copies) in such reservation centres so that people could know the trains and the connectivity. Tie the "trains at a glance" to a desk or wood board if you have apprehensions that somebody would take it. Because the display board only shows trains originating and passing through Tirupati. Third how to motivate the reservation staff is an issue that needs to be looked at.

Reservation centres in Tirumala, Nagar needs upgrade
Reservation staff is meant to serve passengers, if passengers come from distant places and are not able to get the requisite information on the basis of which they can purchase tickets then the railway counter is of little use. Same is the plight of reservation counter inside Samadhi Mandir in Ahmednagar. There is just one counter, two counters can be made by putting the terminal straight instead of putting it sideway and taking the whole space.  The window can be extended, it calls for a little reconstruction. And before the reservation staff puts the reservation slips dully filled by middlemen, he should look at the people who are standing in the line with no middle contacts. The more you encourage middlemen and their capacity to procure ticket at will, more you are hurting the common man and disobeying the simple and sensitive template the place has been brought up with. As an extreme step rotate reservation staff every three months if things don't improve. Passengers here at the reservation centre are in a discomfort and any query on seats and trains is brushed aside. This may not be true for all occasions but it happens quite often. You have a whole room selling the fabric, why not take some space and utilise for handing out railway tickets. One can say that the reservation counters would be idle by early afternoon; perhaps then one counter should be functional and another utilised for some other meaningful purpose.  If public is taken care of, then everything would have smile quotient. Dharamshalas are far away; by the time they reach prasadam centre people have sweated like anything. One won't say anything on shopping complex. A place that is short of water the entire year for its no fault has to face such dilemmas. The hospital needs upgraded version of medical equipments, make a provision for that. BSNL office ke bahar board par tasveer par dhool jam rahi hai ya cover karein yah wahan se tasveer hatake andar office mein lagaye. Sayad yeh board ab tak kahin aur laga hoga.


Coming to Tirumala, on a Sunday i took a 2AC tatkal ticket for Bangalore Rajdhani for the next day. Coming to Uttaradi Mutt, i was in two thoughts on whether i should change the ticket as it showed waiting list 1 or continue with the journey. I again went to the railway counter, sought the number of Andhra Pradesh Sampark Kranti and seeing a whole host of vacancies for Wednesday travel, took a normal ticket with no hassles of tatkal or no tatkal. While on the way i had three different glasses of horlicks, each glass coming for 13 rs. Earlier you could get these milk preparations for five rs, seeing a hike at regular intervals. Adjacent to railway reservation centre on the left is a round shaped structure which  serves milk, tea, coffee and horlicks, boost and bournvita. On occasions coffee is known to be of admirable taste. Rest of the second day went with the consolation that i have two more days of which one day could be utilised to walk from Alipiri Gate to Tirumala.

The first day in Tirumala by Puneet Rajhans

The first day in Tirumala

Having reached Tirumala on a Saturday, the bus on which we were in had its last stop at Balaji bus stand. From here one has to trek a little distance as the jeeps that you sight seek a high tariff on sighting one passenger. Finally had to settle for a jeep which already had more than two occupants leading to a fall in ferrying rate. Uttaradi Mutt was the place i moved facilitated by the fact that the previous day i had made a call from Thrissur station seeking a room with a reminder that i have had the opportunity to stay in the past. Among the list of those expected on that day i find my name giving a consolation that i would get a room. A room that comes with a shared bath is more than sufficient. Being a Saturday one can understand the import of getting a view of the reigning deity. By ten i am ready to join the queue not before taking the writing sheets from a shopping complex opposite Lepakshi.

Queue and enthusiasm
By the time i try to figure out where i am going to stand, it is a winding queue with enough turns and looking less trim. At half past 10 when i join scores of those already there, i give a rough estimate that by 3.30 i would be out. The movement of those in the queue is little and with liberty to converse at any given moment. On occasions more than one we step on stairs and descend mirrored with the sight of those who can't do without health drinks and eatables that are being dispensed by different vendors. Vendors look to be exhausted lot, hoping against hope the sales of the day would be sufficient enough to bring them smile when they return home in the evening. Vendors have only this opportunity to earn their share of bread.

As queue looks solid enough to test your patience, there are occasions when some try to get ahead of others and some playing second fiddle. Some including  me when confronted with pains in the legs try to seize opportunity to sit and save on their energy. Still milk and tea are being provided by TTD personnel, some devotees partaking the benefits; some showing no inclination. There are those who have come in a group, probably from Bangalore and definitely hailing from Bihar. This group of students and the conversation they stick to conveys they have had their date with a group discussion and probably looking to a winding career. There are instances of enough students hailing from Bihar and other States who go to the South for studies marked by inclination of some to maintain their studious template. By the time we reach a point where scanning and checking is done it is half past three. A ticket worth rs 300 is the sole option to get into the temple if one does not wish to join free darshan (sometime it is over in 3 to four hours; sometime stretching to 10 to 14 hours). THere is another option of Sudharshan token worth 50 rs which can be procured on the same day only from Tirupati. As for other places in the country, Sudharshan token is given in advance.

As the queue enters a series of waiting halls, the writing on a sheet can be accomplished with a level of comfort as there are enough benches. It is half past four and we are out of the waiting halls. Mind you those in plain outfits can easily be identified; the expression on their face enough to show their resentment on why they were made to undertake this assignment. Some of these plainoutfitwallahs try to play a role of having the authority to settle disputes when arguments break out among those in the queue. It is better to go past this spectacle than remain witness to their range of commands. Pata nahin queue mein plainoutfit kaun sa kartab dikheyenge.

Sanctum Sanctorum
A little after five i near the entrance point and the rush of people coming from opposite side is strong. Going past entrance gate some can be seen chanting "Govinda Govinda Govinda". Some of the lucky ones get a chance to pay obeisance to a tall pillar that comes before the sanctum sanctorum. I move from the left side and going past another gate i am in sanctum sanctorum. I try to sit for a while in a corner, lucky enough to say the least, letting the crowd ahead and behind to move. One gentleman, hailing from TTD, requests me to move and i dutifully oblige. Seeing the Lord from a distance and then getting to the point from where you have to turn left, this all happens in less than 40 seconds. Sighting for a few seconds is enough to make you understand the import of standing in the queue and getting to the Lord. During Laghu Darshan days, the devotees can go up to the final point; something the Thomala Seva and Archana ticket holders can do. In Break Darshan, which is in the morning and evening, the same advantage can be seen.

As i come out, opposite to sanctum sanctorum is a place where Balaji's Ma resides and one should come out early as the crowd behind you is growing by the minute. From hereon i make an attempt to take a round of sanctum sanctorum coupled with a point where people ascend some stairs to look at the gold plated sanctum sanctorum and a picture of Lord etched on it. There is a huge rush near the Hundi; if one does not find it comforting one can deposit the offerings in a donation box outside the Hundi. Since Sahasra Deepalankara Seva has got over, the murtis are being brought inside leading to a rush of those who want to gain a glimpse. Probably the prasadam comprises laddu or curd rice. It is past 6.45 when i reach the exit gate with one final attempt to chant "Govinda Govinda".

Once you have come out of sanctum sanctorum, one should reach the exit gate fast as the crowd behind you is huge. Second to be good to the devotees who haven't had a chance, let most make a vow to come out early as there are huge numbers waiting in different waiting halls. Finally the TTD should try to understand that giving rice preparation and tea when devotees have come for darshan should be tried on those occasions when waiting period is long ; something like seven to nine hours. Even when these preparations are given, people should be requested to wash their hands. Immediately after coming out i sought change of clothes and headed to Mathrusi Tharingonda Vengamamba Anna Prasada Centre. After taking the meals, i make a positive noting in the register and have an opportunity to meet Muni Rammiah, the Superintendent.
The Anna Prasada Centre is huge radiating a high level of confidence.

The ride from Guruvayoor to Tirumala

The ride from Guruvayoor to Tirumala

On a Friday i leave Guruvayoor around 3.40, reach thrissur at 4.22. On way a signboard shows same direction for thrissur, ernakulam and sabarimala road.

There is a little slide as you approach Thrissur railway station where platform 1 has upper class waiting hall. It is a fairly clean station with a series of vendors spelling their magic. Three platforms in all with  no tall structure in the vicinity and that perhaps explains the serenity to the surroundings. As goods are unloaded from a train from platform 3, all i have to cherish is the clean and not cluttered template. Perhaps two years ago visiting the same station in the month of June the passengers were witness to heavy rains. From Thrissur train leaves at 5.35pm, oatapalam coming at 6.15 (station fairly clean), palakkad 6.40, coimbatore 7.59. There is one gentleman, having boarded the train from ernakulam, is proceeding to Faridabad to meet a friend. With ear phone and no ear ring, he is oblivious to the poor water situation in Faridabad, something i broach, he seems little interested to ponder over in a coach.

Early morning reach Tirupati station; passengers can avail facilities by paying nominal charges
Early morning reach Tirupati station. With no idea of whether i should step out or wait, i try to reach outside only to come across a spectacle where the TTEs room on platform one adjacent to announcement centre has the room door getting partially closed with some passengers inside with a personnel. A little later i visit the upper class waiting hall where i make a due entry and take a seat to be followed by a gentleman offering a cash dole to a lady having the register marked for arrival/departure entry. The best way is even if you don't have upper class ticket, passengers can avail the facilities of bathroom by making a nominal payment by filling a form and taking a receipt. Nominal should be the charges for availing facilities at stations when the upper class ticket is not in hand. After waiting for an hour or so i step out take an auto and reach near Tirupati bus stand where there are a host of lodges.   I try to check in a lodge where i stayed in 95 and 96 only to be told that rooms are booked.

The next course is i try a bus for Tirumala. The bus stops at a checking point. All passengers have to deboard and put their luggage in a scanning machine. Here the amount of time the personnel has taken to scan my baggage and asking me to open it, i think a lot of improvement is required. First the personnel may be exhausted by the turn of load at the scanning centre. Second by the time you come out with your baggage the bus you came in is nowhere to be seen. The plight explained i am told to wait for another bus. Finally the one i get in and the seat i take there is another episode waiting to happen. In good faith i tell one passenger who has boarded after me to take a seat next . He is agitated and whispers  :"Get up" Perhaps part of my folly that the seat that he left to complete the task of scanning was the one i was sitting . But had he made some adjustment we could have all sit. A little later i take another seat and rue on why i missed my bus. It is better from Tirupati to come to Tirumala in a shared jeep/taxi than bus. The number of times you need to board /deboard a bus with your luggage  is not beneficial to your health. Finally a little after 6.30 i reach Tirumala, with the stay spread over four days.

When is the right time to take tea by Puneet Rajhans

When is the right time to take tea

When is the right time to take tea. Well, there is no direct evidence to suggest tea taken at a particular time of the day is beneficial vis-a-vis tea not taken the rest of the day. What is to be kept in mind is to avoid taking tea sprinkled with ginger late in the night as it leads to acidity and gas formation. And these twin challenges are felt the next morning and there is no easy way out. If you hadn't had good sleep, the urge to take tea may flow from a splitting headache or you may prefer to skip the tea altogether if the situation does not warrant the same. Some take tea high with tea leaves, little milk and no sugar; some do with moderate quantity of tea leaves, milk and sugar. And diehard milk aficionados take tea that calls for milk and milk alone and no water.   The decision to take tea is tantamount to a decision made to get active; skipping the same leads one to carry the tag of being inert and ineffective.

Morning hours
As for morning hours some take tea before walk, some post walk and post exercise. During walk and exercise they are exercised with the thought of what their tea would be, would they be served more than one cup and if so the quantity of milk and sweetener would be as alarming as the previous one. During exercise they exercise their mind on all such issues probably believing that a cup of tea would give them clues. When they start having tea they forget all that crossed their mind during exercise and now they are prise open to suggestion that tea the following hours would be of suitable size. Tea and tone of conversation have a lot in common; say some starting with subtle hint of anger and transporting to full blown anger has a lot to do with the tea they desired and not getting the same all those coming in the line of fire.

Visiting tourist locale
If you are visiting a tourist locale, the first sight that would greet you would be a tea vendor parked here or there,  the tea cart probability to appear now and then depending on the numbers of visitors who throng and take care. Around the tea carts who have gathered around them, the conversation veers to the town weather and the 24X7 whisper, setting the stage to let the cart owner come out in detail the places from where he procured milk, tea leaves and water. Tea cart owner makes it a point to sizeably display the glasses and cups to sizeably argue that he has been consistently meeting stiff targets and enamoured by the tea flavour some customers express desire to hand him a new cup/glass storing bucket. To boost tourism potential some are even taken to guided tea garden tours ; amidst tea gardens some plucking tea leaves and getting clicked and some disappearing on spotting tea wardens.

Tea breaks
As for those working in private or perennial sector, there are provisions for tea breaks. When working people enter offices in the morning, the office intentionally provides the morning cuppa to show solidarity that the tea at home was not up to their expectations. During lunch break they take meals that essentially make up of cake to set the stage later for a tea break. During tea break conversations veer around home rage and how most of them are on the same page leading to a least conventional debate on ensuring tranquility with a hike in wage. During working hours working people constantly look at the board that grandly declares "tea is served here, work fast to get in the right gear". The day the tea is not served, they get hurt and excessively blurt. Some even take tea break as an excuse to get out of office to try tea from nearby vendor with a clear desire that tea breaks alone can keep them away from getting tired. Officewallahs bring home the point that if ever the office desires to do away with tea break, the office files would be disposed in a lake.

Tea is here to stay howsoever fast you may grey. During debates/dissension tea can't be kept in suspended session. Quantum of tea being consumed has risen ever since the debate on who can take the top chair with no corrosion. Let the debate be on the quantum of sleep we get and quantum of heat we bet; the debate has to be on tea and those willing to provide for free.

Visit to Prasadam meal centre in Guruvayoor

Visit to Prasadam meal centre in Guruvayoor

Friday was second day of my stay in Guruvayoor coming amidst visits to Indian Coffee House, temple and the prasadam meal centre. By nine in the morning i had joined the temple queue with a rush that suggested the devotees had been queueing up since early morning. Coming out of sanctum sanctorum, i headed to the lodge with a surety that i would be joining the prasadam queue soon. When i left the temple for the lodge the queue spotted was thin and joining later it had grown by a fair margin. Perhaps the shade advantage that one gets by standing down helps to fight the heat. The point where tokens are issued and instructions for taking off the shirt handed this time round one gentleman was stopped from getting inside. His clothes were ordinary and looked to be tired. The objective should be to not stop anyone from taking the prasadam. As we ascended and stood waiting, some could be seen leaving the queue as they had trains to catch.

There are two big halls; and at that time one seem to be working. Between one and one thirty we got inside. Prasadam comprising rice and vegetables and the number of people being served at one point makes the entire exercise gigantic and soothing. This i followed with a visit to Payasam centre. Here you can purchase a token for the contribution you want to make towards the needy and same token has to be deposited to a box which are in good numbers. Apart from butter i sought payasam which is handed in a plastic box with a cover, the size of the box determined by the quantity you want to have. As i returned to the lodge took payasam hoping it would reduce the body pain and fever. This time round i was not present in the temple in the late afternoon when more than three to four elephants take a round of sanctum sanctorum and station themselves in vicinity of payasam centre. They are part of a ceremony which happens perhaps every day.
 Late afternoon i picked luggage from the lodge and headed to the West Nada bus stand. Places i could not visit this time were the beach and elephant sanctuary.


In Guruvayoor

Nishant The Bookshop

Internet cafe @ Harikrishna (for writing paper, no internet activity this time)

Kairali Lucky Centre

Indian Coffee House East Nada Guruvayoor

Krishna Collections (for dhoti previously also from this shop)

As you walk from west nada little after flower college house either side is a picture of tranquility
Vijaya Bank in guruvayur has appu as a guard, helpful and alert.

The split in Bihar

The split in Bihar

The split in Bihar came at a time when the two parties, forming part of the alliance, found it hard to continue when till the recent past on a host of subjects they had a same view. The split was engineered neither by a stiff rise in power/water tariff nor a sea of humanity turning outside the govt premises seeking a new set of arrangement. Voluble threats of pulling apart had begun to come for the past three to four months with a rider that this parting could be halted if one alliance partner could abstain from employing a tool to declare its chief campaigner. Well the poll committee and the declaration to the same was seen by another alliance partner as an attempt to tame. Well the reading could have been miscalculation of sorts, the parting hasn't meant they have ended in knots.

THe day the split came
The day the split came and the day the debates emerged to underscore the significance of a split was a day when the tv was made to function right after morning tea tray continuing well past midnight when the advisory is to sleep tight. In the debates there were dissenters and developers demanding to know why they had been called to tv theatres to debate on a split as this exercise they undertook at home which showcased their 24 hour writ. It was a Sunday, a day before moving-to-office Monday when the policy of the government is to let those working in the govt and garden to take a break and stay at home as for the rest six days they rant and roam. Roam to places that are not offices and rant on those who never proposed.

Preponing lunch; not attaining adulthood
So the two alliance partners of Bihar found it fit to call a split on a Sunday when most would be glued to tv monitors in rooms and bathrooms where on occasions they croon. As news began to trickle that by two in the afternoon a split would be formidable and not fickle, some decided to prepone their lunch and some deciding to skip away from acts done with authority in a lounge. Those not invited to debates and watching the same from outside were eager to find out on split and the reigning sentiment. Speakers during debates were out with stats on who stands to gain from a split in Bihar and if by chance the split was stopped, would the two parties with same alacrity serve and shop. Well, all were talking about 17-year alliance that could not attain adulthood, and if ever parting has to happen it should have a teen shine and ton.

Literature on split
Party which was eager to part went to raj Bhawan to suggest they have numbers in Vidhan Sabha and to keep the independent members who shine with independent outlook on their side they had some surprise. A list of those supporting and willing to support handed to occupant of raj bhawan, the formidable two came to a press conference, seated on those chairs that could signify the significance of a split and sense. They spoke and handed a literature on reasons behind the split with a wish that journos won't be split on why the two parties split and still willing to splurge. After this press conference came another around of sense for another party not that eager to part to formidably assert during another conference largely covered by gents that they had paid their side of rent and were equally hurt.  After the two parties had spoken on the split and sentiment, the party cadres were feeling light with a view that if ever alliance has to happen it should be between parties with same height.

Journos not turning grey
After the two conferences that took place in Bihar, it was turn of the third party in a state called Delhi with its share of intezaar, to hold a press meet despite the prevailing heat. Three press conferences by three parties on a single day showed the prowess of journos who had not turned grey. Debates were happening simultaneously on these press briefings, with the anchors dropping enough hints on their ability to get the requisite water tankers. On that day the tv theatres were filled with creators and carpenters, courting the all-weather logic "debate nahin kiya toh kya kiya". As for the parties who split with a cut, the two would not have realised that their parting and posturing  would lead to a series of debates and dates. After debates got over and anchors returned to their respective homes, they were upbeat on what they said and whom they led. Most hit the bed with sleeping pills, the next morning storing its share of thrills. As for those who had watched these debates and spoken to their room mates, they gave this ringside view that the best part was the state was two-and-a- half year away from polls by the time the railways would have enough inventory on bed rolls.

Parting was painful for two sides, hoping against hope they would have in their arsenal some surprise. 90s to 2005, the state of Bihar with its share of avishkar, had a bumpy ride and hope in the years ahead it would thrive with no stress and strife. Those who have been thrown to the fringe for their role in unleashing upheaval and cringe won't see a comeback if the state has a sound agenda to back.

As for debates and database of that day when the two parties parted with a confidence that they won't grey, the viewers and volunteers had a tough time.  Watching three pree meets followed by a series of strikes and shrieks, some viewers had a splitting headache to counter which they had to apply ointment and take tablet cake. A split leading to a splitting headache should be avoided at all cost beginning with not reading right under tubelights and still making an attempt to spot a horse. One should sport a fabric soon after taking a bath, the exposure to the body can lead to a headache start.  Headaches may happen once in a while like taking a ride from Manali to Leh you have not taken water despite knowing fully well you are amidst some who serve as tutor. In mid-90s while standing in Tirumala queue, the splitting headache was all i can remember of that evening. Intake of saridon got me beaming.